Triathlon Equipment Guide
Wetsuits
Buying a wetsuit is one of the most important triathlon purchases you are likely to make, so it is worth taking the time to get it right.
Triathlon wetsuits are designed to increase your buoyancy in the water, enabling you to have a better body position and ultimately swim faster and more efficiently. The higher your body is in the water, the less effort is required to propel the body through it, this therefore increases speed and reduces the energy used. Wetsuits are made of neoprene rubber which is thin enough to ensure your range of movement is not restricted, but thick enough to keep you warm in cold water. The majority of suits are now designed with a speedy transition in mind too, so getting out of it shouldn’t cost you too much time in T1.
When buying a wetsuit, comfort and fit are obviously important issues to consider. Stick to the manufacturer’s sizing guides as closely as possible. If in doubt or borderline between two sizes, opt for the smaller one. The suit needs to be tight and fit without folds. Check it fits well between the crotch and shoulders. It should fit snugly but shouldn’t restrict your range of movement. Remember it will get looser with wear and will feel different once in the water. If it feels tight on dry land, don’t panic, it is designed to feel like that. Remember that the last thing you want is it filling with water. This will create drag – the very thing a wetsuit is designed not to do.
When deciding which wetsuit to go for, it is also important to consider the thickness and flexibility of the rubber which it is made from. Rubber will vary from two to five millimeters in thickness depending on design. Thicker rubber will add to the suits buoyancy, some swimmers will benefit from added buoyancy whereas stronger swimmers will want a thinner rubber to avoid ‘kicking out’ of the water. Manufacturers tend to make the chest and leg areas of the suit from thicker material and the arms and shoulders from thinner material. As a general rule, the more expensive suits tend to use higher quality rubber with flexible panelling around the arms and shoulders where you really need to have full freedom of movement when swimming. For this reason, if you have the budget to do so, it is worthwhile spending a little more to really get the most from your suit.
Top-end suits are designed with speed and performance in mind. It is also important to highlight the fact that all of the leading brands have their own women’s specific suits. The suits are designed especially for the female form with refined shaping through the waist, hips and bust. They are also slimmer through the limbs, wrists and ankles and have reduced circumferences around the collar and neck.
Tri Suits
Trisuits are an all-in-one suit which can be worn for the entirety of a triathlon, making the transitions from swim to bike and bike to run far less time-consuming. By donning a trisuit underneath your wetsuit, you are more than adequately dressed to swim, bike and run without the hassle of having to change outfits between disciplines.
Trisuits are made from material which is breathable and dries quickly once you’re on the bike. The suit needs to be tight, but not so tight that it is uncomfortable. The majority of suits have a chamois in them which is thick enough to provide comfort while in the saddle for 20k or 40k but thin enough to allow you to run unimpeded.
Some suits feature pockets in the rear which can be handy for stowing away energy gels or bars, but for sprint or supersprint distance races it is unlikely you would need them. Also bear in mind that if you wear a trisuit with pockets for a non-wetsuit swim they will create unwanted drag and will undoubtedly slow you down.
Other features to look out for in trisuits include flatlock stitching and leg grippers. Seams which have been flatlock stitched shouldn’t rub or chafe you while leg grippers will keep the suit from riding up as you bike or run.
Trisuits come in all kinds of styles and designs and will vary in price according to the number of features they offer and the material which they are made from. The top-end suits are geared towards speed and performance.
Tri Shorts
Like a trisuit, tri shorts can be worn for an entire triathlon together with a tri top and are made from the same quick-drying, breathable material. By wearing a pair of tri shorts and a tri top underneath your wetsuit, you are more than adequately dressed to swim, bike and run without the hassle of having to change outfits between disciplines – saving you precious time in transition.
Tri shorts and tops, often referred to in triathlon as a ‘two-piece’, differ very little to trisuits, with the obvious exception that trisuits are all-in-one outfits. For this reason, whether you opt for a one-piece or a two-piece largely comes down to personal preference. Many triathletes prefer the sleek, ‘racer’ feel to an all-in-one trisuit, while others prefer the two-piece look. It is worth noting, however, that if you are taking part in a triathlon which could feature a non-wetsuit swim, trisuits are by far the better option.
Tri shorts usually have a micro-chamois in them which is thick enough to provide comfort while in the saddle but thin and discrete enough to allow you to run unimpeded. They are made from material which is breathable and dries quickly once you’re on the bike and should be tight, but not so tight that they are uncomfortable.
Some tri shorts feature pockets in the sides or rear which can be handy for stowing away energy gels or bars, but for sprint or supersprint distance races it is unlikely you would need them. With Ironman and 70.3 races enjoying such a surge in popularity recently, tri gear manufacturers are responding to this by producing apparel aimed at both shorter and longer distance races. When looking for a pair of tri shorts for a longer distance race, it is vital they have good size pockets which will be able to hold the nutrition (gels, bars, etc) which you will need to carry with you on the run and/or bike.
Other features to look for in tri shorts include flatlock stitching and leg grippers. Seams which have been flatlock stitched shouldn’t rub or chafe you while leg grippers will keep the shorts from riding up as you bike or run.
It is also important to highlight the fact that all of the leading brands have their own women’s specific tri shorts.
Tri shorts are usually quite long in the leg and will vary in price according to the number of features they offer and the material which they are made from.
Tri Bikes
Time trial bike frames are made of ultra-lightweight materials. The tubing that the frame is made of normally has the shape of an airfoil, giving you the most aerodynamic bike frame available. The geometry of a Tri bike (or Time Trial Bike) is more aggressive than a normal road bike. The rider sits further forward over the crank so that more power can be delivered to the pedals and the head and shoulders are lower, along with elbows tucked in to reduce drag through the air.
They are available as complete bikes or as frame builds - where you can select the wheels, finishing kit and group set to your personal preferances. Most time trial bikes use special handlebars, known as aerobars. Aerobars curve forward like the handlebars on a regular road bike, but cut off at the point where the road bike handlebars curl under. The result is a simplified design that is more aerodynamic.
The wheels for a tri bike are very wide and deep, and are commonly referred to as “deep dish”, like a pizza. The front rim usually uses light weight aerodynamic spokes, and the rear wheel either a partial or full disc, making it more aerodynamic.
Due to their frame geometry, tri bikes are not expected to be as comfortable as a normal road bike. Road bikes are designed for comfort and endurance. Time trial bikes are designed purely for speed, and little (or no) consideration is given to rider comfort, especially since most time trials are short races on nearly level ground.
Helmet
Those who are serious about riding in triathlons and time trials usually put as much emphasis as possible on being aerodynamic, and that includes the helmet. There are specific aerodynamic helmets that will direct the flow of air over your head and down your back.
Running Shoes
There’s no single 'best running shoe' – everyone has different needs. All sorts of things - your biomechanics, your weight, the surfaces you run on, and obviously, the shape of your feet - mean that one person's ideal shoe can be terrible for another person.
We divide our shoes into three main categories (cushioned, stability and motion control). The first step in finding your basic shoe needs is to try our 'Wet Test'.
The Wet Test works on the basis that the shape of your wet footprint on a dry floor or piece of paper roughly correlates with the amount of stability you might need in your shoe.
The Normal Foot
Normal feet have a normal-sized arch and will leave a wet footprint that has a flare, but shows the forefoot and heel connected by a broad band. A normal foot lands on the outside of the heel and rolls inwards slightly to absorb shock. It’s the foot of a runner who is biomechanically efficient and therefore doesn’t need a motion control shoe.
Best shoes: Stability shoes with moderate control features.
The Flat Foot
This has a low arch and leaves a print which looks like the whole sole of the foot. It usually indicates an overpronated foot – one that strikes on the outside of the heel and rolls inwards (pronates) excessively. Over time, this can cause many different types of overuse injuries.
Best shoes: Motion control shoes, or high stability shoes with firm midsoles and control features that reduce the degree of pronation. Stay away from highly cushioned, highly curved shoes, which lack stability features.
The High-Arched Foot
This leaves a print showing a very narrow band or no band at all between the forefoot and the heel. A curved, highly arched foot is generally supinated or underpronated. Because it doesn’t pronate enough, it’s not usually an effective shock absorber.
Best shoes: Cushioned (or 'neutral') shoes with plenty of flexibility to encourage foot motion. Stay away from motion control or stability shoes, which reduce foot mobility.
Off-road, or ‘trail’, shoes
These shoes offer increased outsole traction, and uppers with toe bumpers and reinforced stitching for more durability. The foot often sits slightly lower to the ground than usual, for stability and responsiveness; and the shoes often have less cushioning than a road shoe, because they're designed for softer surfaces. You should buy these if you do a lot of off-road running and need shoes with extra traction, more durable uppers and extra protection from the terrain.
